tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64682850308096579142024-03-12T17:06:19.741-07:00how to change pcv valvechange pcv valveBurtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comBlogger49125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-1029379564677349452010-11-24T20:18:00.000-08:002010-11-24T20:18:08.184-08:00Smoke out of the exhaust after i changed the oil.?I replaced the water pump and intake manifold gasket on my 96 blazer and it ran good, i drove it for about 30 miles then i decided to change the oil and now there is greyish whitish bluish smoke coming out of the ehaust pipe. ( i cant really tell if its oil or coolant or fuel?) Also it doesnt smoke right at start up, after about 30 seconds of running it starts smoking. Im worried it is head gasket, but i dont think it is.. (going to check if its losing coolant) Seems like it is burning Oil. The PCV valve is good i just checked it and it has the correct amount of oil. Im currently checking to see if its loosing any coolant or oil. could it be burning to much fuel or something? injector problem? im just confused as to why this happened after i changed the oil. Also there is a Cylindar 5 misfire problem, it has been on there for a while though, way before it started smoking. Could it be from old spark plugs? any help would be awesome, im tired of putting money and time into this car. I also read that maybe its transmission fluid sucked into the intake? how would i test something like this?<br><br /><br><br />also currently it has just water and no antifreeze in it, not sure if this has anything to do with it. It is not over heating.Smoke out of the exhaust after i changed the oil.?<br>Chances are you used too thin of oil. You may want to use a 20-50 rather than 5-30 or 10-30. As for trans fluid, unplug the vacuum hose at the transmission and it should be dry. No fluid in it at all. If the modulator is leaking it's easy to replace. There will be stripes painted on the base for identification. I'd check the misfire too. Is it the plug, injector, the wire, or compression? All except the compression are usually easy fixes.Smoke out of the exhaust after i changed the oil.?<br>if the transmission has a vacuum modulator then pull the hose off and check it. if it has transmission fluid coming out the hose then your motor is sucking the fluid up into your intake and that,s where you see the smoke. also make sure the oil is,nt laying under the valve pan. if it is then the drain holes are clogged up and running down on the valves.Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-34814558527539645702010-11-24T20:17:00.002-08:002010-11-24T20:17:44.161-08:00How to check and take care of my car before a long trip?I am going to Florida from Texas this week (1300 miles) and taking a car which I bought recently. It's a used 2005 Hyundai Elantra with 70,000 miles. The car is generally in a good condition. I have done the following maintenance works last week.<br><br /><br><br />1) Transmission fluid flush with ValvolineMax life ATF.<br><br />2) Engine oil flush with 5W 30Pennzoil<br><br />3) Brake oil flush<br><br />4) Changed all the 4 tires with Pirelli all season tires<br><br />5) A brand new battery (Duralast fromAuto zone)<br><br />6) Brake check and brake pads are good.<br><br />7) Coolant level is good and looks clean (clean light green liquid and not dirty)<br><br />I took the car to a AAA free 38 point inspection. They told that I need to change wipers, the upper and lower hoses as they are soft, and PCV valve. I tried to asked the mechanic in detail, but he was not much interested in explaining and seemed just want to get the work done.<br><br /><br><br />So can anyone provide me some suggestions on anymore checkings/maintenance I should perform before the trip?<br><br /><br><br />Thank youHow to check and take care of my car before a long trip?<br>Bring it the Hyundai Service Center. They know better what to be maintained.Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-62497404888653267042010-11-24T20:17:00.001-08:002010-11-24T20:17:19.440-08:00How can I make my high mileage '94 Honda Accord last longer?I bought an automatic '94 Honda Accord LX used at 135,000 miles and it now has 145,000 miles. I don't know its previous history but it runs great and I just recently had some maintenance work done to it like replacing spark plugs, air filter, pcv valve, drive belts(power steering and alternator), oxygen sensor, front brake pads and valve cover gasket to fix a bad oil leak. I change the oil every 3000 miles and always make sure I have enough oil, transmission, power steering, antifreeze and brake fluid. I'd like to make this car last as long as I can, hopefully another 100,000. What else will help my Honda achieve that? Any tips will be appreciated, thanks!How can I make my high mileage %26039;94 Honda Accord last longer?<br>That's about it. Keep doing those things as required and you should be good.How can I make my high mileage %26039;94 Honda Accord last longer?<br>I have a '95 honda accord. Unless you completely neglect this car it can go up to 250,000 - 300,000 easily. Just keep doing what your doing.How can I make my high mileage %26039;94 Honda Accord last longer?<br>Congratulations<br><br />So very nice to hear from a responsible car owner.<br><br />You're doing everything you should, keep it up.<br><br />My brother inlaw has a 96 and it just turned over 300k with regular maintenance and repairs.How can I make my high mileage %26039;94 Honda Accord last longer?<br>Great car! make sure you keep up with the timming belt changes every 105,000 miles, oil change every 3,000 miles and it will run a very long time. Cv axle boots dry crack and it's best to replace the boots before they split and damage the axles. Honda engines are very well bulit. The transmissions are good too. Transmission will probably need overhaul before the engine will. Your recent repairs may have been expensive, but it's cheaper than a new car payment.Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-64525082651969076152010-11-24T20:17:00.000-08:002010-11-24T20:17:03.070-08:001999 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 3.1, dome light keeps flashing on and off after starting vehicle. How to fix?Just recently changed the spark plugs, air filter, and pcv valve on my girlfriends '99 Monte everything went off without a hitch and seemed very routine. Minus the fact that after finishing up and reconnecting the battery the dome light flashes on and off after starting her car. The dome light continues to flash in a rythmic on and off pattern for about 1 maybe 2 minutes then stops flashing. Also stops flashing when ignition is turned off and key is removed. First thought that crossed my mind was that maybe one or both of the door switches were going bad. Not too sure though as this is a new experience for me. Any insight will be greatly appreciated!1999 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 3.1, dome light keeps flashing on and off after starting vehicle. How to fix?<br>It likely is a dome light delay timer needing replacement.1999 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 3.1, dome light keeps flashing on and off after starting vehicle. How to fix?<br>That's weird.<br><br />It may be some security issue. Try the other (spare) key.<br><br /><br><br />Try this to clear the computer:<br><br />Turn the key to the ignition on position but don't start it.<br><br />Press the gas pedal to the floor three times.<br><br />Now turn the key all the way to start it.<br><br />Let it idle for thirty seconds or so.<br><br /><br><br />This clears computer codes.1999 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 3.1, dome light keeps flashing on and off after starting vehicle. How to fix?<br>check the switches wiringBurtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-51199124178615765392010-11-20T18:11:00.003-08:002010-11-20T18:11:54.196-08:00How do you know if your map sensor is bad?I have a 19999 Ford Mustang v6. the problem is when i go to press on the gas the car does not take off like it should it just goes slow then it starts speeding up. but when its parked i can press on the gas and it revs up good only when your driving it has trouble. what can the problem be? I have changed the wires, spark plugs, tps sensor, pcv valve, mass air flow sensor, Fuel filter, transmission filter. Need some help thinking it could be the map sensor or my Fuel pump. whatever help you all can give me would help.How do you know if your map sensor is bad?<br>I don't think your car has a MAP sensor. There are two ways to measure air into the engine. One is done with mass air meter (maf) and the other with a manifold absolute pressure sensor (map). Fords use a MAF.. <br><br /><br><br />There is a fuel rail pressure sensor on your fuel rail perhaps that is what you think is the map. This sensor keeps the rail pressure at 45 psi above the manifold pressure. So you see a vacuum line on this sensor, but it is measuring fuel pressure relative to manifold pressure. <br><br /><br><br />Can you check the fuel pressure? There should be a fitting on the rail that looks like a tire valve. connect a press sure gage to it (some autoparts stores will loan them) and make sure it stays above 45 psi all the time. <br><br /><br><br />Your fuel pump might be getting weak. I had a Ford Windstar did the same thing and had to put a fuel pump in it.How do you know if your map sensor is bad?<br>You can generally tell when your O2 sensor is bad with a diagnostic scan. Your problem however seems to be with either fuel delivery, ignition, or air intake. Unless you just don't know what a slipping transmission feels like. Do a fuel system pressure test to make sure its within specs. Im not familiar with the V6 mustang, Im going to assume it has a coil pack ignition. Check it or check them all(whichever you have). Make sure your air filter isn't clogged up.<li><a href='http://famous-myspace-ftu.blogspot.com/'>famous myspace</a></li><li><a href='http://get-their-medical-advice.blogspot.com/'>get their medical advice</a></li>Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-15538412445237757212010-11-20T18:11:00.002-08:002010-11-20T18:11:35.138-08:00My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it (2)?My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough in drive and reverse but idles fine in park and neutral. I have changed the spark plugs, air filter, spark plug wires, and the coil pack. I just recently had my transmission serviced (flushed and refilled), my throttle body cleaned, my oil changed, my fuel filter and pump replaced, PCV valve replaced, and my fuel injectors cleaned. I have check for error codes but none were found. I did a cylinder pressure test on each cylinder to check for a cracked head or gasket, all pressures where in the normal range and the same for all four cylinders. There are no signs or sounds of a vacuum hose leak. I have noticed that it only idles rough when the engine is at normal temp (warm). When I first start it and drive a minute or two and stop, it idles normal. I have checked the timing and it seems to be correct. I have also tested the throttle position sensor and it also seems to be working correctly. I have put A LOT of money into solving this problem but none of the above worked. What else could be causing it to idle rough only in drive and reverse? Oh yeah my idling RPMs are around 600. Way to low!My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it (2)?<br>a can of throttle body cleaner sprayed while someone holds your gas pedal down while running.My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it (2)?<br>Did any of the old spark plugs look different then the other 3. If one looked oily it could be missing on that cylinder. If one looked white it could be leaking anti freeze into that cylinder. I have seen new spark plugs be bad. Try pulling one spark plug wire off one at a time to see if it makes the engine run worse. If one of them doesn't make it get any worse, that is the cylinder that it is missing on. Please I hope you are using champion spark plugs.Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-389472785196593782010-11-20T18:11:00.001-08:002010-11-20T18:11:19.168-08:00My Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?Hi guys I just joined this forum and this is my first post and I really need some HELP.<br><br />I have a problem and would like come suggestion on how to fix it.<br><br />I have a 1988 Chevy truck with a 4.3 motor and I swaped it out for another 4.3 motor because the other one was no good . I had to take it for a emission test but before I did I changed the oil 'oil filter replaced the plugs' rotor and cap and then took it for the test and it failed.<br><br />Here's the reading of the test.<br><br /> <br><br /> ASM 2525 Curb Idle<br><br /> Limit Reading Result Limit Reading Result<br><br />HC ppm 83 190 FAIL 200 419 FAIL<br><br />CO% 0.46 0.95 FAIL 1.00 1.99 FAIL<br><br />NO ppm 893 203 PASS N/A N/A N/A<br><br /> RPM 1296 VALID RPM 582 VALID<br><br /> Dilution 14.8 VALID Dilution 14.8 VALID <br><br /> <br><br />OVERALL TEST RESULTS : FAIL<br><br /><br><br />IT FAILED : So I brought it back home and I took of the EGR valve and checked the ports to make sure they where not cloged and they where clean and I cleaned the EGR valve put it back on. I checked the vacuum line on the EGR valve to make sure it was opening right after idle and checked all other vacuum lines for leaks.I dumped some good throttle body ' valve and combustion chanber cleaner down it and let it site . Then I started it and boy did it ever smoke. I changed the plug wires air filter and pcv valve and took it for another test. <br><br /><br><br /> ASM 2525 Curb Idle<br><br /> Limit Reading Result Limit Reading Result<br><br />HC ppm 83 191 FAIL 200 313 FAIL<br><br />CO% 0.47 0.58 FAIL 1.00 0.52 PASS<br><br />NO ppm 893 172 PASS N/A N/A N/A<br><br /> RPM 1321 VALID RPM 563 VALID<br><br /> Dilution 13.4 VALID Dilution 13.2 VALID<br><br />OVERALL TEST RESULTS : FAIL<br><br />Can anyone give me a suggestion on what to do next.<br><br />I checked the timing but I wasn't sure what the timing is suppose to be. I looked in my book but it did not say and I looked on my truck but nothing.<br><br />Anyhow I read in the book that the ignition timing cannot be abjusted on 1996 and later SFI engines on a 4.3L v6 engines because it is electronic controled. So what can I do to bring the HC and CO down to make it pass.<br><br />Thanks in advance for any HELP.<br><br />PS: and I changed the catalytic converter 2 years ago ' I put a universal cat on it and now someone told me that they only last one to two years ' Is that true.My Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?<br>LOL, (not at you),<br><br /> everybody always says replace yhe O2 sensor, <br><br />well in this case they would be correct,<br><br />if you had a scan tool available you would note the high block learn and integrator numbers,<br><br /> simply replace the O2 sensor and go pass your test<br><br /> your welcome in advance,<br><br /> <br><br /> if you do as I say you will pass!!!!!<br><br /><br><br /> change only the O2 sensor, not the cat.,<br><br />the egr valve only works to reduce NOX emissions by lowering combustion temperature, the cat helps burn excess hydrocarbon but only to an extent, a good running fuel injected vehicle could pass a HC and CO emission test without a cat, however it would fail in the nitrogen oxide area!!My Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?<br>If both HC and CO are high, the vehicle may have a bad catalytic converter or an air pump problem. if you put a new catalytic converter on it prior to swapping motors, the old one probably plugged it up.<br><br /><br><br />Also, you need to make sure that the truck is good and hot prior to the test. The cat is only effective when it's hot.My Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?<br>Is running rich, check for loose and/or dirty connectors and like mentioned, the O2 sensor can be reading wrong. By the way... is all stock? Did you changed anything like High Performance? Such as, Exhaust Headers, Performance Chip or any other toy that can throw off the sensor readings?My Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?<br>my trust in bustas here he has bailed me out beforeMy Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?<br>Did you say the timing hasn't been set?<br><br />On these it must be set.<br><br />There is a wire you disconnect, then a timing light will work.<br><br />I am not sure where it is, but I would get the timing set first.<br><br />This will cause your emission problems.Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-75765902302109984802010-11-20T18:11:00.000-08:002010-11-20T18:11:03.563-08:00My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?1996 Honda Accord EX 2.2L SOHC VTEC, 138,000 miles<br><br /><br><br />My car has been hesitating when I press on the gas over the last few days. It gets up to right before the next gear and stays there for 4-5 seconds before it shifts. During these 4-5 seconds I will be almost flooring it but see no change in my RPMs. Its worse with inclines and hills but usually not as bad at high speeds.<br><br /><br><br />The oil is ok, oxygen sensors were changed 3 months ago, and today I just changed out the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, PCV valve and hose, and air filter. The old plugs and cap/rotor looked good, but the old PCV valve didnt make a sound when I shook it. Overall, the tune up made it idle smoother but it still hesitates. I know I should have done the fuel filter but its way too hard to get to, and I heard its even an all day thing for pros on this year of Accord.<br><br /><br><br />The people at the auto store recommended I use Seafoam and fuel injector cleaner during the tune up, but I have NOT done it yet, since Im not sure what Im dealing with.<br><br /><br><br />Any way to narrow it down to see if its a vacuum leak or tranny problem or something else? And how much can it typically cost to diagnose and fix either? Im guessing the tranny will probably be way more than the car is actually worth but i dont know about vacuum systems at all. Thanks in advance.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?<br>sounds like classic pluged catalytic converter. But other possibilities are ignition timing, timming belt maybe jumped, or your carb if it is carbureted, needs to be rebuilt. If it is the Catalytic converter the way to tell is at night look under the car while it is running and well up to normal operating temp if the Cat is plugged it will be golden red. the rest you will need to have diagnose at you local repair shop.<br><br /> I dont buy that about the fuel filter, get a second opinion but really you woulnt just lose power to a plugged filter you would have dificulty starting and stalling. I hate to say it but you also might only be running on 3 cylinders but that is worst case scenario. you need it diagnosed by someone who knows what they are doing.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?<br>add the stuff it is cheap enough if vacuum is cosing it, it will be your modulator valve,will be on the trans and have a rubber hose going to it if after you try seafoam and it still acts that way I would say Its a paper rubber kit,which means the trans needs to be rebuiltBurtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-39561821898707132862010-11-20T18:10:00.003-08:002010-11-20T18:10:47.552-08:00Is it possible to re-sleeve a Cylinder and or Reinstall a Camshaft when the head is off an Engine?1991 Olds Cutlass Calais 2.5L %26quot;Iron Duke%26quot; Tech4, 1989 Pontiac 2.5L Grand Am head (Same Engine)<br><br /><br><br />Wondering is the Camshafts can be changed with the Head ff..<br><br /><br><br />.. also wondering how a Cylinndeer tcan be %26quot;Re-sleeved%26quot;<br><br /><br><br />New parts in the engine im going for, folks.<br><br /><br><br />Thanks..<br><br /><br><br />Also WHERE is my PCV VALVE on the IRON DUKE!?!?Is it possible to re-sleeve a Cylinder and or Reinstall a Camshaft when the head is off an Engine?<br>No. The block bust be removed and field stripped for boreing way oversize for the sleeve to be pressed back in. <br><br /><br><br />You don't have to remove the head to change the camshaft. The rocker-arms, pushrods and side plates on the block must be removed to pull the lifters out before removing the camshaft.Is it possible to re-sleeve a Cylinder and or Reinstall a Camshaft when the head is off an Engine?<br>to remove cams really need to remove intake andto remove intake most remove head yes your doing it right so far<br><br />now have to remove timing cover water pump and lower pulley off front ofBurtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-68940223422144839322010-11-20T18:10:00.002-08:002010-11-20T18:10:32.052-08:00Where are the spark plugs on a 2000 Tauraus SEL 24v DOHC?I have a 2000 Ford Tauraus SEL 24v DOHC and it is mis-firing. I need to change the spark plugs. So I opened the hood and to my surprise I can't see them anywhere! Does anyone know where they are and how to change them? Also where the heck is the PCV Valve?? Love my car but I can't find anything. HELP!<br><br />Where are the spark plugs on a 2000 Tauraus SEL 24v DOHC?<br>I'm not too familiar with this particular motor, but Ford has been going heavily towards COP (Coil on Plug) Ignition for a while. That means no no coil pack, and no spark plug wires. An individual Ignition Coil on top of each spark plug, with normal type of wires going to them. As far as location, engines with 4 valves per cylinder pretty much need to have the spark plugs in the middle of the valves to fit, so they're not down on the side like most OHV and even SOHC engines. Basically, if you were standing in front of the bumper, the plugs on that side of the engine would be pointing straight at you, but under the coils, and very possibly under some sort of a cover too. <br><br /><br><br />Another thing to consider before you try to do it yourself, is that the plugs are deeply recessed. You should have some compressed air available to blow any debris out of the spark plug wells before you take the plugs out, or crap will fall into your combustion chamber. You definitely want to avoid that. And I'm pretty sure those are gonna be Aluminum heads, so you want to make sure the engine is cool, so you don't strip the threads. And even then, they can be quite delicate, and can require a lot of skill and patience to get out without damage. And that's even if the plugs don't break. All in all, and I hope you don't take this personally, but I wouldn't recommend it for a guy who needs help even finding them.<br><br /><br><br />The PCV Valve on the other hand, is pretty easy. It's right here;<br><br />http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/lWhere are the spark plugs on a 2000 Tauraus SEL 24v DOHC?<br>try to follow the plug wires you change them just like any other spark plug and just buy a pcv and they are most offen in valve cover just pulls out easy to replaceWhere are the spark plugs on a 2000 Tauraus SEL 24v DOHC?<br>There is probably a decorative plastic cover over the top of the engine. They usually just pull off but some are bolted into place. Once that is out of the why you will see the wires. The PVC valve can be challenging to find. It will be in the valve cover at the end of a thick hose.<li><a href='http://whatisagoodfirstjob.blogspot.com'>what is a good first job</a></li><li><a href='http://ie-jh.blogspot.com/'>ie</a></li>Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-27215619117657331612010-11-20T18:10:00.001-08:002010-11-20T18:10:16.138-08:0087 suzuki samurai has lost alot of power.?I have a SPOA samurai with 31 in tires, at first it was turnin the tires pretty good in 4th gear down the highway at 55mph and 3100 RPMs. Then the samurai wouldnt start, so i swapped the fuel pump with one of my xtras, it turns out that the PCV valve was clogged and so was the tube for it. Once i cleaned the tube and replaced the valve the samurai started but now it has lost alot of power. What could have caused this to happen. Only the PCV valve and fuel pump have changed. Afterwards i changed the fuel filter and drained the tank because it had sat for a year before i got it. Now i have to hold it wide open in 3rd gear at 4000 RPM to even make 45 mph most of the time on flat ground. The compression was checked and all cylinders were within 5lbs of each other. I need to know how many pounds of compression it should have to run good and any other suggestions as to why it could be lagging so badly all of a sudden. Im thinking maybe timing belt or ignition timing? Any sensors i should check? It seems to run ok, doesnt really sputter. just no power. Please help.87 suzuki samurai has lost alot of power.?<br>The cylinders psi should be around 170.<br><br />Air is getting through by the inlet manifold,most of it is avoiding the carb,re-check on pvc valve.<br><br />Check for a clogged air filter,add gas cleaning to tank or remove and clean carb.<br><br />Fitted nissan a12 Hitachi carbs on them the oe are troubles.Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-64681768344170223522010-11-20T18:10:00.000-08:002010-11-20T18:10:00.022-08:00How do you fix a car from stalling?Yes I recently had my 1999 grand am gt 3.4l with ram air serviced. I had the oil changed,a new fuel filter and had them put the car on the diagnostics computer. I also put in stp concentrated fuel injector cleaner 2 days ago. They said the pcv valve was ok and that everything else checked out ok.The car has 149,000 kms on it.But it still stalls especially when you first start it up from cold. It also does it at other times too,even when its been running for awhile.I use regular unleaded gas but it even did it with the premium too.Could it be a bad injector?Its really frustrating.Also maybe I didnt wait long enough for the stp cleaner to work.Is there also a better kind of cleaner than what I bought or is there another problem going on here?How do you fix a car from stalling?<br>have the Idle air control module checked, thats what happened to mine.How do you fix a car from stalling?<br>Sorry, nothing in a can will fix your problem. Did they check the temp. sensor. I would take it to a reputable repair facility that does diagnostic work and plan on leaving the car for a couple days so they can try to duplicate the problem, especially the one when it first starts up.Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-13843959008070420822010-11-20T18:09:00.002-08:002010-11-20T18:09:43.718-08:0098 saturn 4cyl, black and white smoke when starting?after the car sits overnight, i get the black and white smoke when starting , i have to rev the engine for 15 sec(or it will die), then it runs fine all day. Im guessing oil is getting in the cylinder and then it burns off and then runs normal? im getting worse gas mileage, ive changed spark plugs,valvecover gasket,pcv valve, I also have a slight hesitation when taking off from a stop . when i had the valve cover off i checked the chain connected to the dohc(no slack) is this the timing chain? How do i adjust timing, the distributer cap does not do it. i believe im running rich on gas, and maybe oil getting in the cylinder? thanks in advance for info98 saturn 4cyl, black and white smoke when starting?<br>White smoke: White smoke is caused by water and or antifreeze entering the cylinder, and the engine trying to burn it with the fuel. The white smoke is steam. There are special gaskets (head gaskets are the primary gaskets) that keep the antifreeze from entering the cylinder area. The cylinder is where the fuel and air mixture are being compressed and burned. Any amount of antifreeze that enters this area will produce a white steam that will be present at the tailpipe area.<br><br /><br><br />If white smoke is present, check to see if the proper amount of antifreeze is inside the radiator and the overflow bottle. Also check to see if antifreeze has contaminated the engine oil. You can look at the engine oil dipstick, or look at the under side of the engine oil filler cap. If the oil is contaminated with antifreeze, it will have the appearance of a chocolate milkshake. Do not start the engine if the oil is contaminated with antifreeze, as serious internal engine damage can result.<br><br /><br><br />How did antifreeze get in the oil or cylinder in the first place? The engine probably overheated and a head gasket failed due to excessive heat, thus allowing antifreeze to enter the cylinder (Where it is not meant to be).<br><br /><br><br />Blue Smoke: Blue smoke is caused by engine oil entering the cylinder area and being burned along with the fuel air mixture. As with the white smoke, just a small drop of oil leaking into the cylinder can produce blue smoke out the tailpipe. Blue smoke is more likely in older or higher mileage vehicles than newer cars with fewer miles.<br><br /><br><br />How did the engine oil get inside the cylinder in the first place? The car has many seals, gaskets, and O-rings that are designed to keep the engine oil from entering the cylinder, and one of them has failed. If too much oil leaks into the cylinder and fouls the spark plug, it will cause a misfire (engine miss) in that cylinder, and the spark plug will have to be replaced or cleaned of the oil. Using thicker weight engine oil or an oil additive designed to reduce oil leaks might help reduce the amount of oil leaking into the cylinder.<br><br /><br><br />Black Smoke: Black smoke is caused by excess fuel that has entered the cylinder area and cannot be burned completely. Another term for excess fuel is %26quot;running rich.%26quot; Poor fuel mileage is also a common complaint when black smoke comes out of the tailpipe. Black smoke out the tailpipe is the least cause for alarm. Excess fuel will usually effect engine performance, reduce fuel economy, and produce a fuel odor.<br><br /><br><br />How did the fuel get into the cylinder in the first place? Some of the causes of excess fuel are a carburetor that is out of adjustment, a faulty fuel pump, a leaky fuel injector, or a faulty engine computer or computer sensor. If black smoke is present, check the engine oil as in the white smoke example to make sure excess fuel has not contaminated it. Do not start the engine if a heavy, raw fuel smell can be detected in the engine oil. Call your mechanic and advise him of what you have found. 98 saturn 4cyl, black and white smoke when starting?<br>NEVER replace any part till you KNOW the problem. Don't mess with the distributor. The computer (ecm) takes care of the timing.. Sounds like you have leaking injectors. Bluish smoke is oil. White smoke is antifreeze or condensation from cold climate.98 saturn 4cyl, black and white smoke when starting?<br>You should have told us the mileage too I guess 100,000.-- anyway ,I suspect valve stem seals.-if the valve stem seals are bad ,oil seeps down the valve stem into the cylinder after the eng, cools and is burnt when restarted..also suggest doing compression check to see if one cylinder is lower than the others. when you checked the spark plugs what did you see? Did you pull the out to see if there was any fouling from the oil in the cylinders? This could cause the missing.. put in new plugs if any fouling--would also effect mileage.NEWW QUESTION CAN YOU DO COMPRESSION CHECK you can borrow mine(ha ha) to rule out a prob with rings? Now im also suspecting a sensor problem that will screw up your cold starting by giving the computer the wrong info like, air temp or eng. temp. and the computer gives the eng. wrong amount of fuel. a bad sensor can tell the comp that is 30 degree below zero and add to much fuel. also i mite pull out the sensor on the exhaust pipe to look. the rich fuel and oil may have fouled it. and false reading. What do you other guys think? one more remove you inline fuel filter and empty into a jar to see if there is any water coming from your tank..if you dont buy a lot of fuel or keep your tank level low.. You can build up water in te tank from condensation. also from gas station storage tank.---LOOK HERE AGAINBurtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-8129677561312337662010-11-20T18:09:00.001-08:002010-11-20T18:09:28.175-08:00How to fix my idle on my 98 prelude?sometimes when my prelude is at an idle it will cut off or idle really low like its trying to cut off so i changed the pcv vavle and the idle control air valve and adjusted the throttle cable and it still does it have any clue what else that i can do to fix itHow to fix my idle on my 98 prelude?<br>EGR Valve<br><br />Low fuel pressure <br><br />a vacuume lineBurtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-31771258302107045052010-11-20T18:09:00.000-08:002010-11-20T18:09:12.349-08:0094 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?I need some help from someone who knows what they are talking about and please don't waste my time by telling me to junk the car. I am mechaniclly inclined but still need some help.<br><br />Issues with my car: hard to start in the mornings but starts fine the rest of the day, from a stop it has very poor acceleration and there is almost no response when i push the pedal to the floor at normal speed, it just slowly gains speed, and i have black smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe and I get less than 100 miles out of a 16 gallon tank. Also the front end of the car shakes around 20 to 25 and goes away around 30 mph.<br><br />Things I've done: new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, PCV valve, gas cap, oil change and filter, fuel filter, coolant flush, and thermostat. Cleaned throttle body, intake manifold, MAF, and linkage. Replaced transmission fluid, filter, and gasket. Replaced fuel injector o rings and fuel line o rings, and fuel regulator. Replaced about half of the air and vaccuum hoses, and several gasket on throttle body. I also pulled an EGR valve from a junked car of the same kind as mine and put it on mine.<br><br />What am I missing? Could it be one of the hoses leaking that I haven't replaced yet? Timing issue? Why am I running so rich?<br><br />If you have any suggestions that I can do myself please let me know and give me a break down of how to do it. Thanks for your help.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?<br>First thing I would do is get the codes scanned. Either a mechanic or autozone, you need a code to give you direction. It could be a bad engine coolent sensor or a MAF sensor, cleaning it would solve a lean condition and you have a rich condition, or the pcm causing this. Egr wont do this unless it was stuck open, but then it wouldnt idle if it was. Get the codes then post back what they are and I can give you some better direction. Low fuel psi is not the issue with black smoke . Also a fuel psi check would be helpfull, should have 35 at idle and 40 when the pedal is goosed.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?<br>blocked exhaust<br><br />bad mass air flow sensor<br><br />bad ect sensor<br><br />engine running too cold, need 190degree thermostat<br><br />low fuel pressure94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?<br>How about the Oxygen sensors?<li><a href='http://need-girl-names-with-meanings.blogspot.com/'>need girl names with meanings</a></li><li><a href='http://name-your-fish.blogspot.com/'>name your fish</a></li>Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-56093989005509669882010-11-20T18:08:00.002-08:002010-11-20T18:08:56.033-08:00How long does it take for water removal products to remove water from the fuel tank?I added ISOHEAT to my 26 gallon tank on my Toyota Tundra. I thought I had moisture in the tank after it sat overnight with only 1/4 of a tank of gas, high humidity that night, lots of rain, and a temperature change. It has been two days and while drivability has gotten somewhat better ( no check engine codes now) it still stumbles a little immediately following start up, when the idle goes down even after the engine is already hot... i.e. stopping for gas and filling up and then restarting. I was getting code 300 multiple random misfires. None now. I replaced a few suspect vacuum lines to the EVAP canister and also the PCV valve. The fuel filter is 2 months old as are 3 out of 4 oxygen sensors and a Mass Air Flow Sensor.How long does it take for water removal products to remove water from the fuel tank?<br>Shouldn't take very long if it is moisture. Water is heavier than gasoline and will sit in the bottom of the tank and does not mix with the gas so it should get sucked out fairly quickly. Most water removal products are made from good old alcohol, it mixes with the water to help it burn.How long does it take for water removal products to remove water from the fuel tank?<br>It should take about 1 week.How long does it take for water removal products to remove water from the fuel tank?<br>i own a shop,and it should take about 24 hours for it to work good ,you,ll notice a difference in it in less time though,,but in 24 hours it will make a big difference in the way its doing,,it should greatly improve the running of it ,,good luck,hope this help,s.,,merry x-mas.Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-63087369399160357112010-11-20T18:08:00.001-08:002010-11-20T18:08:39.321-08:00What is wrong with my Buick?I have a 94 Regal 3.8. I just changed the spark plugs and pcv valve. Before that I took it for an oil change. After the oil change the car began making a grinding sound when the wheel was turned all the way. After the spark plug/wire change, the car is now shaking slightly when in gear. It is worse in reverse and non existant in neutral. Also there is a clicking sound coming from the engine (not sure if it is new, or I just never noticed). The car has 164,000 miles on it. What do you think is wrong and how much should I expect to pay to have it fixed? (Or even better how hard would it be to fix myself?)<br><br /><br><br />All fluids have been checked and are at an ok level. A mechanic said recently that there was some metal shavings in the transmission fluid.What is wrong with my Buick?<br>One thing at a time. Oil change and wheels are not related....so the noise was there before the o.c.. Would guess that the rim of the wheel is rubbing on the frame. There is a steering stop that can be adjusted to prevent the wheel from going over that far.<br><br /> After spark plugs and wires were changed<br><br /> car runs rough.....you crossed a wire someplace or you have a dead new plug.<br><br /> Clicking noise could also be a spark jump from a spark plug wire to ground(either on the block or the frame) look under the hood at night and see if you can %26quot;see%26quot; blue sparks%26gt; fix that and it might just run better too....for that would give you the dead cylinder.<br><br /> Metal shavings in tranny fluid, normal.What is wrong with my Buick?<br>Dude your grinding noise issue has nothing to do with the oil or spark plugs. You better go have your tires/ball joints/suspension checked. I know this sounds weird comming from a girl, but my husband has his own repair shop and I've learned a lot. Sometime tires shake because of the tire having a broken belt inside. <br><br /><br><br />As for the clicking sound you would have to be more specific. Maybe you have wires crossed.What is wrong with my Buick?<br>I think you should start to look for another car. The buick you have is on it's last leg. I am a mechanic at a local car dealership and i have years of experience repairing auto's... your problems don't sound good...What is wrong with my Buick?<br>The shaking that you are describing is your engine misfiring. The reason it is OK in neutral or Park is that your engine is not %26quot;loaded%26quot; in these positions. Only when you place a load on the vehicle- drive or reverse- will this condition manifest itself. I bet if you were to drive this car at about 40-45mph in 4th gear with the torque converter engaged and slowly accelerated the car you would feel this shaking on a larger scale. The rear spark plugs on this engine stink to get to and can easily be cracked if you aren't careful. I am pretty sure that your problem is ignition related. Do not forget to check the ignition coils for carbon tracking-black soot-if you see this replace the coil(s) as well.<br><br /><br><br />Good LuckWhat is wrong with my Buick?<br>lean toward it being a cv shaft (axle halfshaft) if its a fwd, otherwise get under it an see if they left something wedged up under your cars driveline components. a cv shaft u can do at home if u are mechanically inclined but they can be a pain an can also get pricey, they typically pop when turning. if they go out when u are driving u will know bc the car will no longer accelerate and just roll to a stop. u can always drain your tranny an investigate, usually shavings accumulate on the magnet thats in the tranny pan if there are any at all. investigate for yourself unless u know the mechanic VERY well to be safe. good luckWhat is wrong with my Buick?<br>STOP steering it all the way over on either side!<br><br /><br><br />there is NO need to turn the steering wheel all the way over until it hits lock left or right. By just backing off a tad until it is OFF lock, it will keep the pump from straining pressure thru its relief valve, and causing a lot of wear on your pump AND also you will not lose any of the front wheel steering angle you are trying to get to get out of that tight spot!<br><br /><br><br />When you back off the steering wheel off full lock you are not losing any of the front wheel angle, and also you will not be slamming the pressure into the relief valve!<br><br /><br><br />They probably put the wrong heat range or gapped the plugs incorrectly, they also could have damaged a wire. It is more important to change the wires as they wear out about 30,000 miles (before they start changing resistance) Plugs should last a lot longer than that as cars do not use lead anymore these days which fouled plugs really quickly back then!<br><br /><br><br />They may be using a lighter oil than was in it the last time , that could be causing the clicking sound.<br><br /><br><br />If the trans is shifting fine, then don`t worry about it.Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-87744612437702583412010-11-20T18:08:00.000-08:002010-11-20T18:08:23.936-08:00Catching up on scheduled maintenance on 02 durango, estimate for these services please, thanks!?So I'm going to list the items that need to be done, please estimate how much this will all cost as well as any possible costs from the inspections, thanks!!!<br><br />Change oil and oil filter<br><br />Change air filter<br><br />Inspect front wheel bearings, clean and repack as required<br><br />Inspect brake linings<br><br />Change spark plugs<br><br />Inspect PCV valveCatching up on scheduled maintenance on 02 durango, estimate for these services please, thanks!?<br>$55.00 to $75.00 depending on where you take it to get these things done.<br><br />A Dealer usually charges the most compared to a place like Midus because of less over head.Catching up on scheduled maintenance on 02 durango, estimate for these services please, thanks!?<br>Try this site out, it will give you estimates for prices. http://repairpal.com/.<br><br /><br><br />Out of all of those upgrades the air filter, spark plugs, and pvc valve would be easy for anyone to do so you wouldnt have to pay for labor if you knew someone that knows very little about engines. The PCV valve is under 10$ for the part, spark plugs (depending on what you want) run anywhere from 3-10$ per cylinder, and the air filter can run from about 20-50$. Of course im just going by what i know for the price of the part, not labor.Catching up on scheduled maintenance on 02 durango, estimate for these services please, thanks!?<br>You can do all that yourself. All of that is easy stuff. But in a shop <br><br /><br><br />about 20-30 bucks for a basic oil change<br><br />The air filter would be about 15 bucks labor<br><br />Inspection of brake lines shouldn't be much, replacing wouldn't be so bad. <br><br />Spark Plugs would probably be about 50-75 bucks labor then the plugs themselves<br><br />PCV valves take a while to go bad on newer vehicles. That's a simple check you can do yourself and it takes about 5 minutes. You don't even need tools for that one. <br><br />Don't forget trans fluid and filter change<br><br />Radiator flush and refill<br><br />Fuel filter<br><br />Spark plug wires<br><br />Tire inspection and balanceCatching up on scheduled maintenance on 02 durango, estimate for these services please, thanks!?<br>any dodge dealer or service station will give you an accurate quote on this , if it is 4 wheel drive you cannot clean and repack the bearingsCatching up on scheduled maintenance on 02 durango, estimate for these services please, thanks!?<br>oil change 25 to 35 dollars<br><br />spark plugs depinging on the kind you wont 20 to 120 dollars<br><br />air fillter 20 or so<br><br />brakes if you need them 35 to 50<br><br />a good shop would inpect all the other thing for free note that if you take it to a dealer you will pay 2 or 3 time thisBurtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-24131072385543668992010-11-20T18:07:00.003-08:002010-11-20T18:07:52.261-08:00What happens if the wrong fluid was put in where the brake fluid goes? What is the fix for that?We have an 81 impala and when the brake pedal is pressed, the brakes are tight. Someone said it might be the incorrect fluid was put into the brake fluid. We just got the car four months ago and this just startd. We have only had the pcv valve replaced and an oil change done, both by Jiffy Lube.<br><br />How much would that cost to fix?What happens if the wrong fluid was put in where the brake fluid goes? What is the fix for that?<br>If by tight you mean that you have to apply more force than usual for the brakes to work you may be describing a bad brake booster. That would not be a fluid related issue. The checks for that are really simple. If you find the master and booster there will be a vacuum hose on the booster (a really big black one) that is attatched to a valve that makes an L. Carefully pull that out by the valve and put your finger over the hose and have a helper see if the brakes get harder to push. If they do than the booster is ok. If you hear an air sound when pushing the brake the booster is probably bad. As for weather or not the wrong fluid is in the Master cylinder that is simple to detect. find the master cylinderr and take the lid off. get a cup of regular tap water. put a few drops of the fluid in the master into the water. If the fluid sinks into and dissappears into the water it is brake fluid. If you see stuff floating on the top of the water you have a big problem. do not just bleed the brakes as if there is oil in the master that will just push it through the rest of the system and make the situation worse.. I would say that whoever has been servicing and put the wrong fluid in your master should man-up and cover repairs.What happens if the wrong fluid was put in where the brake fluid goes? What is the fix for that?<br>bleed your brakes, you ought to be able to do this with the help of someone to pump the brakes, or a brake shop can do it. it shouldnt cost too muchWhat happens if the wrong fluid was put in where the brake fluid goes? What is the fix for that?<br>Depends on what you mean by tight. I doubt it is a fluid problem. Check your brake pads ... if they are worn down and the steel backplate is grinding against the rotor then the brakes grab badly when you press the pedal down. To replace the rotors and pads will cost you about $400 .... about $140 if you do it yourself.What happens if the wrong fluid was put in where the brake fluid goes? What is the fix for that?<br>if you are describing that the brake pedal is hard after the pcv change i would be looking at that....What happens if the wrong fluid was put in where the brake fluid goes? What is the fix for that?<br>The calipers may be shot,or go ahead and bleed all the fluid out and use Dot 3 fluid to replace it.What happens if the wrong fluid was put in where the brake fluid goes? What is the fix for that?<br>tsh-66 is correct in what he says but what he is trying to inform you on how to test for incorrect fluid in the master cylinder is to remove some fluid out of the cylinder (a cooking baster can be used)., put some of this removed fluid to a cup (jar or dish) of water as required. If the fluid is incorrect and the system needs to be bleed, remove all the old fluid from the master cylinder first and fill with new fresh DOT 3 and bleed each wheel cylinder until the fluid runs clean. Any questions, e-mail me.<li><a href='http://hair-weave-dfy.blogspot.com/'>hair weave</a></li><li><a href='http://high-speed-usb.blogspot.com'>high speed usb</a></li>Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-69189406969426501362010-11-20T18:07:00.002-08:002010-11-20T18:07:35.770-08:00Maintenace info on 2002 Honda CRV?How often do I need to change the following:<br><br />pcv valve<br><br />fuel filter<br><br />air filter - engine<br><br />air filter - car interior<br><br />coolant<br><br />spark plugs<br><br /><br><br />ThanksMaintenace info on 2002 Honda CRV?<br>pcv valve---Never unless it fails<br><br />fuel filter--Never unless it fails<br><br />air filter - engine--2 years/30,000 miles<br><br />air filter - car interior---2 years/30,000 miles<br><br />coolant--2 years/30,000 miles<br><br />spark plugs--7 years/105,000 milesMaintenace info on 2002 Honda CRV?<br>i dont know about the pcv valve or fuel filter but the engine which i believe you mean oil filter should be changed every 3000 miles the air filter should be changed around 6000 miles depending on the brand you get coolant when it gets too low spark plugs every 8 months or sooner if damaged. i change everything every 3000 miles so my truck is in pretty good shapeMaintenace info on 2002 Honda CRV?<br>pcv valve-don't bother until it goes out and your check engine light comes on.<br><br />fuel filter-this could leave you stranded on the side of the road, so before 100,000 miles rolls around<br><br />air filter - engine-every 20-30,000 miles<br><br />air filter - car interior-I'm not sure about this one. I have never replaced one in my life.<br><br />coolant-every 100,000 or so miles.<br><br />spark plugs-every 60,000 or so miles.<br><br />I'm gonna' add one more-transmision fluid-60-70,000 miles.<br><br />But don't take my word for it. Decide what is the most important and how close you are to it being due. When in doubt, check the owner's manual. Honda spent a lot of time and money developing this vehicle and they know better than me or anyone else that posts an answer to your question.Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-4456393682215784162010-11-20T18:07:00.001-08:002010-11-20T18:07:20.360-08:00How can I get my 1982 Hot Rodded Monte to pass emissions?I have a 292 Magnum cam and a 750 double pumper Holley carb on it. I've tried alcohol in the tank, retarded timing, super small jets, oil change, plugs, and removing the PCV valve and letting the thing just suck air. Any help would be greatly appreciated.How can I get my 1982 Hot Rodded Monte to pass emissions?<br>It's hard to say what you need to do actually. Does the Monte still have the catalytic converter? If it had an air pump from the factory - is that still intact? <br><br /><br><br />I think you'll need to look at the emissions sheet and identify which categories it is failing on and target those directly. <br><br /><br><br />Otherwise, wait a year, and depending on what state you're in, it may fall under classic car guidelines (25 years old or older) and not require testing.Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-68951476366856760082010-11-20T18:07:00.000-08:002010-11-20T18:07:03.717-08:00How can I fix or do about my 95 honda civic dx that is consuming a lot of oil?My car is a 1995 honda civic dx 2 doors. It has 185k on it. Every week I have to fill up the car with oil. I commute everyday 80 kms back and forth. Sometimes my car consume quicker when I travel longer in a day. I had it check out but the mechanics cant find the problem. They changed the valves covers and replaced pcv but still didnt solve the problem. Please help me out. thanksHow can I fix or do about my 95 honda civic dx that is consuming a lot of oil?<br>the only explanation for that is the piston rings. does it smoke when your on the floor? if so oil is getting past the pistons and burning. if it doesnt smoke, well then, old motor eat fuel.How can I fix or do about my 95 honda civic dx that is consuming a lot of oil?<br>to hell with old cars...we all should burn them :) <p><span>Report Abuse</span></p> How can I fix or do about my 95 honda civic dx that is consuming a lot of oil?<br>At that milage probbably valve stem seals if that doesn't fix it one large bore round to the block %26amp; get a real car.How can I fix or do about my 95 honda civic dx that is consuming a lot of oil?<br>Unfortunately it sounds like you have high mileage and at this mileage things start to go quickly down hill. It sounds like a leak or the pistns. Listen to your local radio with the Tappet brothers they're experts on these kinda questins.Look them up on the WebHow can I fix or do about my 95 honda civic dx that is consuming a lot of oil?<br>rebuild the engine or buy a new engine or buy another carHow can I fix or do about my 95 honda civic dx that is consuming a lot of oil?<br>If it is a honda drain the oil and refill it with STP then sell it.Buy you areal car.How can I fix or do about my 95 honda civic dx that is consuming a lot of oil?<br>the rings are worn and probably the valve stem seals, you don't want to know what it would take to fix it rightBurtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-75915542582601925622010-11-20T18:06:00.003-08:002010-11-20T18:06:48.243-08:00Where is the location of the pcv valve on 2006 Durango SLT 4.7?.?Where is the location of the pcv valve on 2006 Durango SLT 4.7 and How do I change it. The lube center wouldn't change it because they said it in some assembly and didn't want to break it.Where is the location of the pcv valve on 2006 Durango SLT 4.7?.?<br>PCV is located on the side of the oil fill tube under the cap ,<br><br /><br><br />i think :/Where is the location of the pcv valve on 2006 Durango SLT 4.7?.?<br>Dodge Durango will be gone by 2011Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-74943109761555349442010-11-20T18:06:00.002-08:002010-11-20T18:06:32.538-08:00My mustang in need of assistance?the other day i changed my pcv valve which is located in the back under the upper manifold as shown here <br><br />( http://www.cjponyparts.com/NewTechFBengine.aspx ) 46 on the diagram anyway, once i was done i realized i broke some wires, 2 of them come from the Thermactor Air Bypass Solenoid i believe which is 2 on the diagram, the 3rd which is a red wire, which plugs into the back of the top manifold, i have no idea where it goes, and they don't make theses wires anymore, i just came back from the junkyard and they only had one 5.0 and it was a 4 cylinder looked nothing like mine, but i took all the similar wires i could, and replaced the ones i broke but, that thick red wire, i cant replace it because i don't know where it goes to, the one coming out of the upper manifold right next to the pcv valve in the diagram,,, where is it going? i know it has something to do with air... and how important is it? thanksMy mustang in need of assistance?<br>The 5.0 you saw in the junk yard was not a 5.0<br><br /><br><br />It must of been a car with the emblem.<br><br /><br><br />5.0's are not 4 cylinders.........They are V8 - 302 cubic inch motors.<br><br /><br><br />Sorry I can't tell you exactly what wire it is .....<br><br /><br><br />But I can direct you to a Mustang Forum of serious 5.0 racers.<br><br /><br><br />They will tell you everything about the Mustang.........And I mean Everything<br><br /><br><br />www.ClickClickRacing.com<li><a href='http://how-to-deal-with-cheating.blogspot.com/'>how to deal with cheating</a></li><li><a href='http://www.imwebhost.com/email-web-hosting/index2.shtml'>email web hosting</a></li>Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6468285030809657914.post-1129095322687028472010-11-20T18:06:00.001-08:002010-11-20T18:06:16.450-08:00Oil laden PCV valve in 2002 Chevy Malibu?A relatives car has a thick oily substance on the PCV valve and in the valve cover where the PCV valve is located. Given this indicates that it has not been changed in a long time and that the oil was probably not changed often, how can I be sure that there is not any substantial damage to the engine? and what parts of the system should be cleaned given this oily valve?<br><br />The relative just bought the car.Oil laden PCV valve in 2002 Chevy Malibu?<br>I own a 01 Malibu and it has 117k miles on it, I'm getting really famaliar with its inherit problems. <br><br /><br><br />Its from a long life of unchanged oil and crude build up. You can clean out the motor sludge with those engine oil additive. But it wont clean the emissions lines. They would have to be physically cleaned or changed. The PCV feeds alot of vacuum lines and intake systems. The one way to prevent it from getting worse is to start using synthetic oils, cause they dont cause buildup and in somecases clean things up.Oil laden PCV valve in 2002 Chevy Malibu?<br>The only way to be sure of the internals of your engine is to remove the engine and tear it down for inspection, but oil pressure is also a good indication of engine condition. Poor oil pressure indicates oil passeges blocked or more likely worn out pump and bearings. You can buy additives that you add to the oil to help beak down the sludge befor you do an oil change.Oil laden PCV valve in 2002 Chevy Malibu?<br>google %26quot;how to use seafoam%26quot; seafoam will give your engine a great scrub down if you cant find the procedure for your car, well the procedure is the same for all cars.Oil laden PCV valve in 2002 Chevy Malibu?<br>take it to a mechanic.Burtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08030082178501178678noreply@blogger.com